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Come’n Git It for real American food writing

I’ve had enough. My ability to absorb and endure pretense (my own aside) has collapsed. I’m declaring a moratorium. On food magazines. Have you read any of the food magazines…

I love meat. Where are your pets?

Meat. Ahhh. I’m reflecting on my life as a carnivore. It’s all I have to do. I’ve squandered hours in front of the TV doing cultural research, watching one after…

Happy where the music plays, and the sun don’t shine

I’m in Santa Fe. More or less against my will. Land of period knockoffs, pea-brain western art, cowboy hats without cowboys, and awkward turquoise jewelry. Pretense, N.M. I am grumbling.…

Beetle Boy is a happy boy

I’ll never cook again. I’ve had it. It’s been a long, fascinating run — most of it wonderful. A satisfying adventure. A meditation of high order. But, it’s over. I’m…

Taming the beast with truffles

They can, on certain occasions, make women more tender and men more lovable … Alexandre Dumas They sure make me more lovable. Give me several slices and I’ll join a…

When violence looms, talk, then walk

“Well I look like a farmer but I’m a lover. You can’t judge a book by looking at its cover.” Ah, the wisdom of Bo Diddley. I put a twist…

Plan your (last) menu for Dec. 21

Some situations sharpen the appetite better than others. You’ve experienced this, haven’t you? Senses are piqued, perceptions are expanded, every aspect of being is enlivened, made electric, distinct. Food tastes…

Dive into a pile, beware the stains

“I just got into town.” “Great, we’ll get together.” “Time for an eating adventure.” “As always.” “What’s it gonna be?” “I have excellent alternatives in mind;  we merely have to…

Turkey, a tail and some great French wine

I’m hungry. Very hungry. And I am confused. Very confused. I’m wandering aimlessly through the market. I am overwhelmed by the play of bright colors, but the stunning variety of…

When all is dark, try meatballs

It’s dark. An oppressive present is frequented by failure, plague, despair, strife. The immediate future is vague, at best. It shouldn’t be this way. After all, it is springtime. In…

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