Food for Thought

Time to Hatch a plan

It’s over.

No need to shed tears; it won’t help. Similarly, a barrage of irate letters, each signed with a clever nom de plume, will serve no productive purpose.

It is the end of a great ride; time to unbuckle the seat belt, leave the car and exit the platform.

Case closed.

I came to this realization while I was in the bathroom.

There are two publications that, for me, are best suited to the most meaningful time and place to catch up on my light reading.

In the bathroom, while I’m perched on the can.

For me, it’s been all about O and Martha Stewart Living. There is a time and place for Claude Levi-Strauss and Maurice Merleau-Ponty (or any other French guy with a hyphenated name), but this ain’t it.

It’s gotta be Oprah or Martha.

Love ’em.

My number-one bathroom buddies.

Or, should I say, they used to be my best bathroom buddies. One has fallen swiftly from grace.

Saturday morning, what began as a typical, gratifying ten minutes, was utterly destroyed by Martha.

I cannot recall a worse bathroom experience. Well, let me qualify that: I cannot think of a worse bathroom reading experience. I left the hallowed space a depleted soul.

Martha put some very bad mojo on my ethnic-food favorite. She blitzed one of the main fixtures in my culinary life, doomed it to extinction.

A once-great, kind-of-exclusive food of the Southwest, has been released to the big, wide foodie world — a world, as we all know, peopled by avaricious, look-at-me, trend suckers with way too much money to spend on things they don’t truly understand. They latch on to the latest big deal and, like remoras, the parasites ride the thing all the way to the beach. Their attention is like a death ray.

And now, thanks to you know who, they are focusing that death ray on a staple in my diet for the last 40 years — the Hatch chile.

No doubt, within a short time, the foodies will rename it the Hatch Chili, and a sizable portion of the population of New Mexico and southern Colorado will commit suicide.

This insult is profound and strikes to the core of tradition. Who among we longtime Hatch maniacs can forget the sacks full of these long, green beauties (hot, please) being opened, the peppers tossed in a crusty roaster? Who can forget that extraordinary smell as the skins of the Hatch blacken and blister, the meaty flesh of the peppers softening in the rude heat?

Who can forget the ritual of putting the warm peppers in plastic garbage sacks, tossing the sacks in the trunk of the car, whisking them home and spending the better part of a day removing the skins from the peppers, then packing the peppers in bags and freezing them — their mouth heat actually growing more bold during their time on ice? Who can forget that the interior of the car smelled of roasted chiles for at least four months?

And, the taste.

Oh, my.

There are some ill-informed novices who will pooh-pooh my alarm, claiming there is no difference between green chiles grown in one location (Hatch) and those grown elsewhere.

I did use the word “novices” didn’t I?

How very wrong they are. Making this claim is tantamount to saying a pinot noir produced and bottled in Utah is the equal of the greatest French use of the grape.

Terroir counts, folks, with chile as with wine. Where the darned fruit is produced — the climate, the composition of the soil, all that and more — makes the diff. A big diff.

And, just as the highly educated and experienced aficionado of the grape can detect very real nuance and character in a wine (some of them can take a taste then name the village nearest the vineyard) — and can clearly detect quality, or lack of same, in a particular bottling — so too are there chile freaks who have perfected a similar art.

My friend, Ronnie, for example.

When I told him what Martha had done, he blanched and clutched his chest.

No way was I going to administer CPR (at least the mouth-to-mouth part), so it’s a good thing he recovered quickly.

“You must be kidding,” he said.

“Nope. In her I-know-more-than-you-do precious way, she has sounded the death knell for Hatch. Before we know it, the major part of the crop will be shipped from the region in fancy, gift-wrapped boxes, each individual chile encased in gold foil. People in The Hamptons will be throwing chile roasting parties on the beach. It’s over, buddy.”

We pondered a world without our favorite green.

“I suppose it wouldn’t do any good to put out a hit on Martha Stewart, would it? After all, the geeks know about it now. And, they’re like killer bees: when they locate their target they swarm, and that’s all she wrote.”

“Indeed. Maybe we can turn to Chimayo for relief.”

“No way. It doesn’t make it as green. Not compared to Hatch. Chimayo peppers make the greatest red in the world and, as we know, it’s the same basic pepper as in Hatch, just grown in a different place. When the Chimayo ripens and dries, and different peppers from different farms are blended and ground … it’s a bit of heaven. But, green? Never.”

We pause, a moment of silence extended in thanks for our prized and, as yet, unfoodied Espanola red. We each have at least a pound of the rare and wonderful powder in our freezer.

But, it’s not Hatch. It isn’t The Big Green. So, two moments of silence for The King: Le roi est mort.

That gem of a pepper is unique. And it stands out when it is put in the kitchen spotlight— isolated as a primary ingredient. The more naked, the more beautiful.

This is what is doubly irritating about Martha Stewart’s clarion call to her gaggle of food goofs: The recipe is for a salsa!

For crying out loud! Why would you waste Hatch chile in a salsa? The recipe combines a roasted and chopped Hatch chile with chipotle and some other lesser member of the pepper clan.

What an insult. Not only is the trend-happy horde alerted to a miracle, but now our beloved pepper is going to be abused by them!
This is so wrong.

I admit it: I’m an extremist when it comes to Hatch. I even believe it is somewhat wrong to use a Hatch green chile in a relleno, though the pepper’s incredible taste melds perfectly with the other elements. This can be tolerated, barely.

But, whoa Nellita … how about some strips of the roasted green, lightly salted, draped across a medium rare burger, the meat cut by your very own hand from a hunk o chuck and ground at home? A bit of cheddar or asadero anyone?

As a wrap for a stuffed chicken breast? Yep, that’s OK, as it is with pork.

As the star of a simple, yet seductive green chile stew?

My, aren’t we lovely.

This is where Hatch belongs; It’s a diva, not a member of the chorus.

And we can put it center stage in so many ways, as in a neat little custardlike casserole, the pepper paired with another couple of fave taste partners — corn and cheese.

This one is easy.

You got your strips of roasted, peeled hot green — Hatch, of course.

All you need is a buttered casserole, an oven heated to 350, some butter, high-grade cheddar, eggs, heavy cream, salt, pepper, a bit of ground cumin, some chopped white onion, a clove of garlic, a small can of cheapo creamed corn and a pack of frozen corn kernels.

And a good attitude. After all, attitude counts.

Chunk up some of the cheese, slice the rest.

The onion gets cooked briefly in a bit of olive oil, until translucent. In goes the frozen corn. Cook until the kernels of corn begin to caramelize a bit. Toss in the garlic and keep the blend on the heat for a minute or so. The mix comes off the heat and cools.

In a bowl, mix together the creamed corn, four or five beaten eggs, a splash or two of heavy cream, the chunks of cheese, a touch of the cumin, salt, pepper and one clove garlic, smooshed.

Put a layer of the corn/egg mix in the casserole, lay down a layer of Hatch that completely blankets the slop, then top with the remaining corn and egg. Cover with slices of cheese.

Place the casserole in a larger baking pan and fill the larger pan with hot water, to come up two-thirds of the way on the sides of the casserole.

Bake until the custard sets and the cheese on top is slightly browned (could be upwards of an hour). If the cheese browns too quickly, tent with foil and continue cooking until the custard is set.

Or, just make a grilled cheese sandwich with Hatch and the same high-grade cheddar. Or plop some chopped Hatch into a cheese omelet. Hard to go wrong.

The, do as I do: Retreat to the bathroom for some light reading.

In my case, it will be O, and O alone.

I wonder how I can get in touch with Oprah and convince her to alert her readers to the toxic effects of Hatch green chile on any but natives of the Southwest.

After all, O is all I have left.

And Hatch is all there is when it gets to green.


What's Cookin?

Quick and Snappy 3 Bean Chili

1 can Bush’s Chili Magic, Traditional Recipe
1 can red kidney beans, low sodium
1 can black beans
1 can diced tomatoes, no or low salt
2/3 cup Morningstar Farm Veggie Burger Crumbles or hamburger, browned
2 tablespoons dry minced onions
1 teaspoon beef style seasoning
1 teaspoon cumin

1. Lightly drain Chili Magic and pour into saucepan. Drain kidney beans and add to the saucepan. Do not drain black beans or tomatoes and add next.
2. Stir in burger and seasonings. Cover and simmer chili 5 to 10 minutes. Serve Hot
3. Use sour cream, chives or grated cheese for garnish.
Yields 7 cups. Source: Linda Kennedy.


Minty delight for late summer nights

Few things are more pleasurable than a cool dessert on a warm, late-summer night. Ice cream often fits the bill perfectly. While you certainly can drive over to your nearest ice cream shop and enjoy a cone or sundae, you can also have an easy dessert on hand with little effort at home.

While some may say that chocolate and peanut butter are the perfect dessert pairing, chocolate and mint flavors together can be absolutely divine . and refreshing. That is just the idea behind this simple ice cream cake from “Ice Box Cakes: Simply Irresistible No-Bake Desserts” (The Harvard Common Press), by Lauren Chattman. Serve it with a raspberry sauce garnish to add even more color.

Grasshopper Ice Cream Cake
Serves 10
20 Oreo cookies (to yield about 11/2 cups crumbs)
2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon crème de menthe
2 pints mint chocolate chip ice cream
28 Crème de Menthe thins candies, coarsely chopped

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Place the Oreos in the work bowl of a food processor and process until finely ground. Add the melted butter and pulse once or twice to moisten the crumbs. Press the mixture evenly into the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan, packing it tightly with your fingertips so it is even and compacted. Bake until crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Let cool completely. (The crust may be wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen for up to 1 month.)
2. Bring 2 inches of water to a bare simmer in a medium-size saucepan. Combine the bittersweet chocolate and water in a stainless steel bowl big enough to rest on top of the saucepan and set it over the pan, making sure it doesn’t touch the water. Heat the chocolate, whisking occasionally, until completely melted. Remove from the heat and stir in the crème de menthe. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
3. Spoon the ice cream into a large mixing bowl and mash with the back of a spoon until it is smooth but not yet melting. Scrape it into the pan and smooth it over the crust with the spoon. Smooth the cooled chocolate sauce over the top of the cake and sprinkle with the chopped Andes mints. Wrap the pan in plastic wrap and freeze until firm, at least six hours and up to one week.
4. Release the sides of the pan from the cake before serving.


Billie Breedlove

Billie Breedlove, 92, began a new journey with the Lord, Sept. 16, 2007. She was born to William and Frances Gilley on Feb. 19, 1915, in Ector, Texas.

Billie met and married Farris Breedlove while attending Austin College in Sherman, Texas. They enjoyed a life together for 71 years before Farris passed away in September 2006. Before retiring to Tucson, Ariz., they made their family home of 35 years in Pagosa Springs, where Billie influenced and molded many lives through her teaching and mentoring.

She is survived by Marilyn (Win) Alme, Marka (Harvey) Catchpole, Beverly (Barry) Kreek, seven grandchildren and eight great-grandchildren.

Contributions in Billie’s honor may be sent to the Billie Breedlove Memorial Fund, Archuleta School District, P.O. Box 1498, Pagosa Springs, CO 81147.


Helene A. Koelsch

Helene was the Easter Bunny to so many folks in Pagosa, young and old. She wrote Christmas shows for her family in Boston and made her nieces feel like stars. She was the ugly old hag at Halloween that everyone loved every year. Of course, Halloween she was Uncle Fester. She loved to cook — everywhere — everything — any way she could. She loved the water, from swimming in a pool, swimming in the ocean to swimming at Navajo Lake. We floated together for hours. She even wrote a pirate song — The Pirates of Navajo — which we sang from time to time. She was a tyrannical business woman who could say cedar (seedah) in a way no one else could. I remember watching the Olympics with her and wondering what event we could enter. Of course, she came up with synchronized drinking. We actually awed crowds with our precision and sound effects. She was a mother to her dogs, a wife to Steve, a friend to all and a “sista” to me. We will miss her dearly, but will never forget our time together. — Connie Prunty

There will be a potluck gathering to celebrate her achievements, aspirations and attitude on Saturday, Sept. 29, from noon to 5 p.m. at Steve and Helene’s house, 942 Great West Ave.

Lawrence Jasper Shock

Lawrence Jasper Shock, 85, died Thursday, Sept. 20, 2007, in Pagosa Springs.  A funeral service will be Saturday, Sept. 29, 2007, at 11 a.m. at the Allison Community Presbyterian Church, and burial will follow at Allison-Tiffany Cemetery in Allison.

Mr. Shock was born August 12, 1922, in Allison, Colo., the son of Russell and Ruth Shock. Mr. Shock served in the U.S. Air Force during WW II and was stationed in San Antonio, Texas, and Seattle, Wash.  While in the service, Mr. Shock worked an extra job to help buy the farm near Allison where he later lived and raised his family. He married Emma Carlson on July 6, 1946, in Aztec, N.M.
Mr. Shock was very involved in the Allison community as a rancher and farmer, water commissioner, worked for the El Paso Natural Gas Plant, worked as a ditch rider and the groundskeeper for the Allison-Tiffany Cemetery.

He is survived by his wife Emma Shock of Allison; three daughters: Darlene (Steve) Wylie (daughter) of Durango, Colo., Jeannie (Del) Benson (daughter) of Ft. Collins, Colo., and Sherry (Dick) Schutz (daughter) of Chromo, Colo.; eight grandchildren:  Rhonda (Tony) Beam, Justin (Angie) Wylie, Scott (Zenda) Wylie, Travis Benson, Shelby Benson, Jason Schutz, Craig Schutz, and Casey Schutz, and four great-grandchildren, Tyler and Sarah Wylie and Altee and Deven Beam.

Memorial Contributions may be made to the Allison Community Presbyterian Church, P.O. Box 1088, Arboles, CO 81121, or the Spring Creek Community Association, 7940 Hwy. 151, Ignacio, CO 81137.


Wayne C. Frank

Wayne C. Frank, of Boulder, died Friday, August 10, 2007, at Frasier Meadows Retirement Community in Boulder. He was 83. He is survived by his wife of 61 years, Cathy; daughter, Mary (Don) McKeehan from Pagosa Springs, and their daughters, Hope (Randy) Cook, Traci McKeehan and Kelli (Michael) McKeehan-Markley; daughter, Diane (Jim) Kasler from Casper, Wyo., and their sons Edward (Misty Anne) Winzenried and Jared Winzenried; and son, Bruce (Kathy) Frank from Golden, Colo., and their sons David and Adam Frank. He is also survived by several nieces, nephews and their families. A memorial service will be held at 2 p.m., Sunday, Sept. 30, in Phillips Chapel at Frasier Meadows Retirement Community, 350 Ponca Place, Boulder. A reception will follow. Memorial contributions may be made to the Davis Phinney Parkinson’s Foundation, P.O. Box 19264, Boulder, CO 80308, or Frasier Meadows Retirement Community Scholarship Fund, 350 Ponca Place, Boulder, CO 80303, or to HospiceCare of Boulder & Broomfield Counties, 2594 Trailridge Drive East, Lafayette, CO 80026.


Henry Albert Smith, Sr.

After four years battling leukemia, Henry Albert Smith, Sr., passed away Sept. 22, 2007, at his home in Pagosa Springs, surrounded by his family.

Henry was born Oct. 16, 1936, in Rapid City, South Dakota, to Harry and Blanch Smith, a sawmill owner and a teacher.

From an early age, education played an important part in Henry’s life. He attended a one-room school in Hill City, South Dakota, where his mother taught sawmill workers’ children. Under the shadows of Mount Rushmore, the students watched the famous sculptures take shape.

Henry’s family moved to Pagosa Springs in 1946. His father opened a mill, the Harry Smith Lumber Company, and Henry spent many years working every facet of the operation. He felled trees, set choker and skidded logs. As young as age 13, he drove log trucks to the Porcupine, Square Top, Archuleta Mesa and Pagosa Springs mills. He also delivered lumber to the Duke City Lumber Company in Albuquerque, N.M.

During this same time period, Henry hauled railroad ties from his father’s mill in Pagosa Springs to Pagosa Junction where they were loaded on trains for shipping.

Henry graduated from Pagosa Springs High School in 1954. A year later he joined the Air Force. He was stationed in Yuma, Ariz., from 1955-1957. In 1958, he received his private pilot’s license.

He spent one year at Pueblo Community College. The next three years, he attended the University of Northern Colorado. He graduated with both a bachelor’s and a master’s degree in special education and school administration.

After graduation, Henry taught special education for a year in Brighton, Colo., and served as Southeast Elementary School’s principal for five years. He moved back to Pagosa Springs in 1973 to accept the job as principal of the elementary school.

Over the next several years, Henry built a strong special education program. His reputation for innovative ideas and his commitment to children drew students from many districts.

Henry’s community involvement was strong. He was instrumental in creating the Airport Board at Stevens Field; he helped start the Archuleta Water Company; he was a member of the Lions Club; and he helped implement a bilingual program at the elementary school.

In 1993, at age 55, Henry retired from education to do something else he dearly loved — operating heavy equipment. He drove a snowplow on Wolf Creek Pass the winters of 1994 and 1995, then went into full-time excavation work — building foundations, installing sewer systems, building roads.

Henry and Judy opened the 160 West Adult RV Park in 1989. Due to its popularity, they expanded in 1993. They ran the park for six months of the year and traveled the other six months. They prospected in Arizona, another one of Henry’s passions, and enjoyed the beaches of Mexico until he was diagnosed with leukemia in June of 2003.

Henry was preceded in death by his parents, Harry and Blanch Smith. He is survived by his wife, Judy; son, Henry Albert Smith, Jr.; daughters, Naoma Ingo and Nicol Houghland; son-in-law, Eric Houghland; stepsons, Floyd McKee and wife, Lori, John McKee and wife, Jode; and grandchildren, Alex and Lauren Houghland, Tayler and Carson McKee, and Kyler and Kaden McKee.

In lieu of flowers, the family requests donations be made in Henry’s name at the Bank of the San Juans for the elementary school’s Special Education program.

A memorial service for Henry will take place at 1 p.m., Sunday, Oct. 14, at the community center, followed by a luncheon and celebration of his life.


Weddings

Brodie Renner & Joy Spence

Jack and Patti Renner, of Pagosa Springs, are pleased to announce the wedding of their son, Brodie Renner, to Joy Spence, on Sept. 29, 2007. The couple will continue to reside in Virginia Beach, Va.

Births

Jeremiah Bruce Jones

BJ and Christine Jones, along with their daughter, Anna, are proud to announce the arrival of their son, Jeremiah Bruce Jones, born Aug. 23, 2007. He is a true gift from the Lord.

Locals

MaryLou Villalobos

MaryLou Villalobos, the daughter of Jesus and Matilda Villalobos of Pagosa Springs, and a graduate of Pagosa Springs High School, is finishing her education at Colorado State University. MaryLou is currently in Madrid, Spain, studying marketing until the end of the year. Her trip to Madrid was preceded by visits to Germany and the Czech Republic.